Grapes
Kisi
3 min
Overview
Kisi (ქისი) is an ancient white grape native to eastern Georgia, particularly the Kakheti region. Once widespread, it nearly disappeared during the Soviet period when vineyard diversity was reduced in favor of high-yield varieties. In the last two decades, it has experienced a remarkable revival - thanks to small family wineries and boutique producers recognizing its potential for rich, expressive wines.
Today, Kisi stands among Georgia's most admired whites: aromatic like Mtsvane, structured like Rkatsiteli, and distinctively deep when made in qvevri.
Characteristics
Kisi produces small to medium clusters with thick-skinned, yellow-amber berries. It ripens mid- to late-season and thrives on sunny slopes with good drainage. The grape naturally accumulates high sugar while retaining balanced acidity - a rare trait that allows both dry and semi-sweet styles without loss of freshness.
Its vines are moderately vigorous and adaptable, showing resilience to drought and temperature fluctuations typical of Kakheti's continental climate.
Wine styles
Kisi adapts gracefully to both traditional and modern vinification, offering depth without heaviness:
- Dry whites - balanced, medium-bodied, floral and mineral, often partially aged in oak or qvevri
- Amber / qvevri wines - structured, textural, with honeyed and nutty undertones
- Semi-sweet styles - small-batch, naturally sweet wines from late harvests
- Experimental blends - sometimes combined with Mtsvane or Rkatsiteli to enhance complexity
Taste profile
Kisi wines often display an interplay between fruit sweetness and herbal tension, creating balance and complexity:
- Aromas: apricot, ripe pear, white peach, honey, wildflowers, sometimes chamomile and citrus peel
- Palate: rounded texture, moderate acidity, gentle tannin (in qvevri styles), long finish
- Amber versions: orange peel, dried fruit, walnut, subtle spice, and fine-grained structure
Regions
PDO
Kisi does not have a PDO of its own but appears in several Kakhetian PDO zones as a permitted variety, particularly: Kardenakhi, Gurjaani, and Tsinandali (in blends or experimental bottlings).
Food pairing
Kisi's balance of aromatics and structure makes it highly versatile:
- Roasted poultry, pork, or veal
- Cream-based or nut-based sauces (satsivi, bazhe)
- Grilled vegetables and mushrooms
- Semi-hard or aged cheeses
Winemaking notes
In qvevri production, Kisi often undergoes several months of skin contact, resulting in an amber tone and tannic backbone. Modern stainless-steel versions emphasize fruit clarity and gentle florality. It tolerates oak aging well but doesn't require it; extended lees contact enhances its texture.
The grape's natural balance between acidity and sugar makes it forgiving to ferment and rewarding for long maturation.
Key producers
Renowned examples come from small and mid-sized producers such as Shalauri Cellars, Pheasant's Tears, Telavi Wine Cellar, and several boutique maranis in Akhmeta and Napareuli.
Summary
Kisi (კისი) embodies the rediscovery of Georgian viticulture: historic, nearly forgotten, and now central to the country's modern wine identity. With its aromatic charm, depth, and adaptability, Kisi bridges Georgia's ancient craft and contemporary refinement - a grape that rewards both curiosity and patience.
